Pascuala Vázquez
Hernández
Tejadora (weaver) of the Famous
Chiapas Textiles
Pascuala is a weaver from Zinacantán,
Chiapas. She learned to weave on a back-strap loom when she was twelve
years old, taught by her mother and sister.
The technique
of using a backstrap loom consists of securing an end of the loom to a
tree or post and the other end to the waist of the weaver, maintaining
the tension with the weight of the body. This is a pre-Hispanic technique
that continues to be used without major changes over the centuries. The
complexity of the work that can be created on this loom is limited only
by the skill of the weaver, and the entire loom with the weaving in progress
can be rolled up at any time and carried from place to place.
The town of Zinacantán,
of Tzozil origin, is located only ten km from San Cristobel de las Casas
in what in the Tzotzil language means "Valley of Bats." Zinacantán,
like many pueblos in Chiapas, has a great textile tradition.
The people of
Zinacantán prefer being a closed community. As with other indigenous
communities in this region, they can be identified by the clothes they
wear: in this case distinctive purple, blue and pink predominate. All
the clothes they wear are handmade locally. The wool from the sheep, cleaning,
dyes and knitting are all done "in-house": nothing is purchased
externally. Sheep are sacred here - they are treated, protected and mourned
when passing away as any other member of the family. If you are driving
through this region take extreme precautions with sheep that may wander
into the road.
Zinacantán
was conquered in 1486 by the Aztecs, during the reign of King Moctezuma
Xocoyotzin. Here, the Aztecs established an important commercial center,
while looking for precious merchandise such as the coveted feathers of quetzal, amber and jaguar skins, among others. During the Aztec
time there was an extensive exploitation of the local salt mines.
The colorful landscapes
have made Zinacantán one of the most photographed communities in
the region. The inhabitants are hard working, having as main activities
the floriculture and the production of vegetables for local consumption.
The colorful clothes they wear give a singular beauty to the typical multicolored
picture of Mexico. Zinacantán is located 2,100m over the sea level
and has a population of more than 30.000.
The diversity of
colorful crafts also imitates the valley dotted with greenhouses full
of flowers, which are a very important part of Zinacantán’s
economy as well as its rituals. The people of Zinacantán have always
been naturally talented business people and merchants; perhaps a characteristic
passed down from their Aztec ancestry.
The clothing woven
by the men and women of Zinacantán have very bright colors that
change season to season. For a long time, the main color was predominantly
an intense Mexican rose. Currently more subdued tones are used, especially
black, dark green and dark blue.
One of the most spectacular
pieces of clothing made in Zinacantán is the marriage huipil called k'uk'umal chilil or "feathered huipil". At the bottom,
feathers from white hens are attached. This is strictly a ceremonial dress
used exclusively for weddings
Pascuala has managed
to organize a cooperative of 20 women, many of them family, to work together
to save expenses and giving mothers time to do their normal work in the
home while making money to bring into their homes at the same time.
Pascuala and the
other members of their group have participated in diverse art shows throughout
Mexico. They have also published a book, “Revelations of Mexican
Popular Art.”
Contact information: Crescencio Rosas o 3 Zinacantan, Chiapas 967 103 0243 or 967 680 4514
Or contact Marianne Carlson at
01152 376 765 7485 or email
mariannecarlson@gmail.com
(Our
thanks to Karen Henderson for the use of her photographs)
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