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Arte Amuzgo
Odilon Merino Morales

Huipiles Tradicionales y Tintes Naturales
(Hand-woven indigenous blouse/dress)

Odilon Merino was born in the indigenous pueblo (village) of San Juan Amuzgo, Oaxaca on the coastal plain called The Pot.

Since childhood he has worked on the backstrap loom used his mother and grandmother to make blouses for their own use and sometimes to sell. Over time he became interested in knowing more about weaving and wanted to develop his own style.

Today Odilon works with natural dyes only, in particular a rare purple dye that comes from a sea snail (caracol) from which a dye called purpura is obtained from the rocky coast of the Pacific Ocean. The weavers take their threads to the ocean where they gently "milk" the sea snail without harming it or their ecosystem. The result is used to obtain beautiful shades of purple.

Odilon and Arte Amuzgo Cooperative have revived the technique of weaving with the natural brown cotton coyuche. Cotton coyuche is an endangered art and Odilon works with about 120 other weavers who all belong to a project to rescue the many authentic and antique methods of making an Amuzgo huipile and the other woven adornments worn by their Mayan ancestors. The rare coyuche cotton has been in little demand during the past decade but through this cooperative, it is making a come-back.

Hand-weaving has survived as an unbroken tradition through the centuries in this area of Oaxaca. Early civilization there dates back to 700 BC, and Mixtec Indians are thought to have conquered the Monte Alban Zapotec culture and occupied the area around 900 AD. Archaeological finds indicate magnificent adornments worn by the Mixtec elite, with beautifully painted codices providing valuable information about the different garments that prevailed in the region. It is also clear that women played a very important part in ancient Mixtec society, for they are shown not only as rulers and priestesses, but also as warriors. weavers made fabric for uses such as rebozos (shawls), rugs, upholstery, bedspreads, tablecloths, curtains, tablemats and napkins, potholders, tortilla warmers and pillow covers. .

Cotton has long been the indigenous crop in the Maya regions, with wool being introduced to Latin America by the Spaniards. The cultivation of cotton remained common among many rural villages, and the use of natural brown coyuche cotton by the Mixtecs and a few other groups is a testament to their appreciation of its warm and subtle coloring. Preparation for spinning of the short coyuche cotton fibers is a much more difficult and time-consuming process than working with the longer white cottons.

While a general trend toward using synthetic fibers and commercial dyes has been overtaking the Mayan culture during the last 20 years, the current revitalization project has helped to revive the traditional cottons and natural dyes and invigorated the weavers. Events like Feria Maestros del Arte, collectors and connoisseurs who know and appreciate this type of wearable art, are helping to keep this art form surviving for the time being.

Arte Amuzgo cooperative, helps bring a sustainable income from the cotton huipiles (blouses) they make in the special lavender sea snail dye and with Odilon's special spiral design. After two years of building, they now have a small shop that sells this special work in natural and green cotton colors.


The first photo gets its lavender color from the rare purpura dye spoken of above.

Contact information:
Arte Amuzgo
Odilon Merino Morales
Amuzgo, Oaxaca

Or contact Marianne Carlson at (from the US) 01152 376 765 7485 or email mariannecarlson@gmail.com.


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